Duluth: More Than Ore

by Ted McDermott

Tucked into the southwest corner of Lake Superior and situated midway between Minneapolis and the Canadian border, Duluth is a cold, remote city subject to its fair share of snow. It is not, in other words, the first place you might choose to spend a winter weekend. Perhaps it should be.

Duluthians, as the city’s residents are known, don’t let low temperatures and deep snow keep them inactive and inside—and you shouldn’t let the winter keep you away. Both relaxed and bustling, Duluth is a great place to get away.

A place first explored by European fur traders, settlers rushed here in the mid-19th century seeking gold, but found copper instead. Iron ore mining and timber harvesting came to dominate the local economy. Then, industry arrived in the early 20th century, and the city boomed. At one point, it was home to more millionaires per capita than any other city in the world. The growth and prosperity lasted through the 1960s; then, factories closed and unemployment grew and population declined. But Duluth recovered.

Focusing on the area’s natural beauty and rethinking the possibilities of infrastructure built for industry, the city rebounded. Today, roughly 184,000 people live in Duluth and the surrounding area.

Red bricks pave the downtown streets; skywalks criss-cross above. Old warehouses along the waterfront are now cafés, shops and restaurants, forming a pleasant neighborhood called Canal Park. From here, you can look out to the shipping canal and the world-famous Aerial Lift Bridge. Great Lakes carriers, as well as sea-going ships, steam slowly through the canal several times a day. On their approach, these ships trade bellowing horns with the bridge operator, echoing throughout Duluth’s hillside. The spectacle concludes with the Lift Bridge’s 1,000 ton deck raising high above the vessel as it moves on to conclude its trade in port.

Aside from the leisurely pace of Canal Park, Duluth is known as a destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Recently named one of Outside magazine’s “30 Best Towns,” Duluth’s hillside and riverfront are lined with hundreds of miles of biking, hiking and climbing trails. From the well-marked, paved Willard Munger trail on Duluth’s west side to Hartley Nature Center and its miles of wooded terrain on the east side, Duluth offers a broad range of challenges for everybody.

Part of the allure of these outdoor attractions is the city’s mild summer weather. Known as “The Air-Conditioned City,” mild temperatures make a summer hike or bike ride comfortable.

Then of course, the winter comes. But even as the weather gets colder, there’s still plenty to do. You may not want to go for a hike in two feet of snow and sub-zero temperatures, but the options don’t diminish—they diversify.

At the end of the nineteenth century, John Beargrease, the son of an Anishinabe Chief, made the journey along the rugged North Shore of Lake Superior. Traveling by dogsled through the bitter, snow-covered winter, he brought mail from Two Harbors to Grand Marais. It was an arduous, unpredictable journey, but Beargrease completed it consistently for almost two decades.

Today, his effort and commitment are commemorated each winter with the running of the John Beargrease Sled Dog Marathon. Considered one of the most prestigious sled dog races in the lower 48 states, it attracts mushers from around the world. It also brings over 4,000 spectators to the race start in Duluth. And so yes, while it is cold in Duluth in January, that doesn’t mean the city shuts down or that Duluthians hide away.

The Sled Dog Marathon, a 400-mile race along the rocky cliffs of one of America’s most beautiful scenic shorelines, is a reminder that the people of this Minnesota city remain vibrant and active, no matter the temperature. (For those keeping track, the average January low is –10F.) From late November until the end of winter, you’ll find a healthy crowd on the slopes of the Spirit Mountain ski area. Peering over Lake Superior, the Lift Bridge and the St. Louis River, it looks down on a remarkable view of the city. There are cross-country trails at the top, and slopes of varying difficulty leading down to the bottom.